Selasa, 20 Desember 2011

Paffgen Brewery

Last evening I dined at Paffgen Brauerei, the last family brewery in Cologne. The beer served at this establishment is called "Kölsch" once the most popular beverage in the city. Once a dark beer, the draught's color was changed to resemble a pilsner. It is still served from the keg at Paffgen and I ordered a weinerschnitzel with three beers. The beer came in 2cl glasses and cost only 1.5 Euros. If I had been with a friend, I could have drank about twenty of them.Kolsch is the only beer to order in Cologne and the natives view Dusseldorf's Alt beer as water.I hate eating alone and left as soon as I was finished, but the manager asked where I was from."New York." I was born in Boston, but lived in New York most of my life and I explained how the two cities share a bitter rivalry."Same as Dusseldorf and Koln. One thing I want to tell you. Nico from the Velvet Underground was born here. Her family name was Paffgen. Her father was a solider in the War." He lowered his voice. "The father suffered a brain injury and they experimented on him in the camps.""Schiesse." Those were bad times for everyone."I once saw her here.""Nico?" I had attended a concert of silver-blonde siren at the Mudd Club. The Warhol superstar accompanied her harmonium with a gravelly voice like a sledge dragged through mud. I escaped to the upstairs bar. She should have done a duet with Yoko Ono, the Axis of Drone and Shriek."She was blonde and tall. A true Paffgen. Are you leaving?""No."I sat for another two beers.You are never alone as long as you have your memories.PAFFGENFriesenstraße 64 50670 Köln0221 135-461

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